Dryer Not Heating? Electric vs. Gas Causes and What You Can Check

Quick answer
If your dryer tumbles but blows cold air, first make sure a no-heat setting such as Air Only, Air Fluff, or an eco option isn’t on. Then check the power or fuel: an electric dryer can lose its heat when one half of its double breaker trips, and a gas dryer won’t heat if the gas shutoff valve is closed. If the dryer gets warm but clothes take forever, the likely cause is airflow, from a full lint screen or a blocked vent. If none of that helps, a part such as the thermal fuse, heating element, or igniter may have failed, and that is a job for a technician.
Safety first
- If you smell gas, stop. Don’t try to light any appliance, don’t touch electrical switches, and don’t use any phone in the building. Get everyone out, then call your gas supplier from outside, for example from a neighbor’s phone. If you can’t reach the gas supplier, call the fire department. These steps come from the gas warning in Whirlpool’s dryer guide, and LG’s support page lists the same ones.
- Unplug the dryer before you clean around the lint screen or reach behind the dryer. GE says to unplug before any maintenance or cleaning.
- Don’t open the dryer cabinet, the power cord cover, or any gas fitting. The heating parts, the 240-volt power connection, and the gas connection are jobs for a qualified technician or electrician.
- Reset a tripped breaker only once. If it trips again, leave it off and call an electrician.
- Plug the dryer straight into its wall outlet. The U.S. Fire Administration says never to use an extension cord with a major appliance.
First: no heat at all, or just slow drying?
Run a quick test with the dryer empty. Whirlpool and Maytag say to run a heated timed cycle for 5 minutes, then open the door and feel inside. Samsung’s version is Time Dry with Eco Dry turned off, checked after 30 seconds.
- Cold inside: the dryer is not making heat. Work through steps 1 to 5. Samsung notes that a failed heater usually shows up as no heat at all.
- Warm inside, but loads take too long: the heat source works. Whirlpool says the likely cause is the vent or restricted airflow, and Samsung says service is almost never needed in this case. Start with steps 2 and 3, then see Heats but clothes still come out damp.
Electric or gas? Which checks apply
According to GE, an electric dryer needs its own 208/240-volt outlet, while a gas dryer plugs into a dedicated 120-volt outlet and also connects to a gas line. Whirlpool adds that electric dryers use a 3- or 4-prong power cord. If there is a gas pipe with a shutoff valve behind your dryer, it is a gas model.

| Check | Electric | Gas | What the manufacturers say |
|---|---|---|---|
| No-heat cycle or eco setting | Yes | Yes | Air Only and Air Fluff never add heat. Some eco options run part of the cycle without heat. |
| Lint screen | Yes | Yes | A clogged screen cuts airflow, and the dryer can’t heat well. |
| Vent airflow | Yes | Yes | Some dryers hold back heat when hot, moist air can’t escape. |
| Both halves of the breaker | Yes | No (runs on 120 volts) | One half can trip. The drum turns, but there is no heat. |
| Gas shutoff valve open | No | Yes | With the valve closed, the drum turns, but there is no heat. |
| Parts a technician checks | Heating element, thermal fuse, thermostat | Igniter, flame sensor, gas valve coils, thermal fuse, thermostat | These need the dryer taken apart. |
Not every model has every part or setting. Your owner's manual is the final word for your model. Source: Whirlpool, Maytag, Samsung, LG, and GE support pages listed below
1. Check the cycle and settings
- Air Only or Air Fluff. Whirlpool and Maytag say these cycles never add heat. GE says to use a dry cycle, not Fluff or Cool Down.
- Eco settings. Samsung says Eco Dry runs the start of the cycle without hot air and turns on automatically for common cycles like Normal and Time Dry on models that have it. LG says Energy Saver is on by default for Cotton/Normal and air dries without heat for most of the cycle; press and release the Energy Saver button to turn it off for one load. Whirlpool’s EcoBoost, on models that have it, uses slightly lower heat on Regular/Normal and adds about 40 minutes, according to its quick reference guide.
- Cool Down. Whirlpool explains that the dryer tumbles without heat during the Cool Down phase, so cool air near the end of a cycle is expected.
Pick a regular heated cycle and repeat the heat test. If it’s warm now, you’re done.
2. Clean the lint screen
Samsung says the dryer can’t heat well when the lint filter is clogged, and Whirlpool says lint buildup puts extra stress on the heating system.
- Pull the screen out (at the top of the dryer or inside the door opening) and remove the lint with your fingers. Whirlpool says not to rinse it for routine cleaning, because wet lint is hard to remove.
- About every six months, Whirlpool recommends scrubbing it with a nylon brush, hot water, and liquid detergent, then letting it dry fully.
- To vacuum lint out of the slot under the screen, unplug the dryer first.
- Never run the dryer without the screen. The U.S. Fire Administration lists that as a basic dryer fire safety rule.
3. Check that air is getting outside
This is a quick check to see whether the vent is the problem, not a full vent cleaning.
Why the vent affects heat. Samsung says its dryers may hold back heat when heat and moisture can’t leave, to prevent overheating and vent fires. Maytag says a clogged vent can push the heater to a high-temperature limit, leaving the drum turning without heat. Whirlpool says a blocked vent may not stop the heat, but it is a common reason clothes don’t dry fully. CPSC warns that lint can block airflow, cause heat to build up, and start a fire in some dryers.
Outside the house. Start a no-heat cycle (LG suggests Air Dry) and find the vent hood on the outside wall.
- Normal: the flaps open fully and you can feel air coming out. CPSC and the U.S. Fire Administration both say to check this while the dryer runs.
- Problem: the flaps stay shut or barely move, little air comes out, or lint is packed around the opening. LG notes the flaps can jam with lint. Remove the lint you can see, and LG says a cover whose flaps can’t open should be replaced.
Behind the dryer. Unplug the dryer and look at the duct between it and the wall. With a gas dryer, look without moving it, and leave the gas connection alone.
- LG says the duct should not be crushed, dented, kinked, or coiled like a spring, and should have no holes or loose connections.
- CPSC says most manufacturers specify rigid or corrugated semi-rigid metal duct, and recommends replacing plastic or foil accordion-type duct, which traps lint and crushes more easily.
- Samsung says the vent shouldn’t exceed the maximum length in your manual, and each 90-degree turn cuts that maximum by 6 feet.
If the outside flap barely opens and the duct behind the dryer looks fine, the clog may be inside the walls. LG recommends a professional dryer vent cleaner for that. Brands differ on how often to clean the full vent: Whirlpool and Maytag say every one to two years, Samsung once or twice a year, and LG yearly.

4. Electric dryers: reset both halves of the breaker
Whirlpool and Maytag explain that an electric dryer needs a 240-volt supply on its own 30-amp circuit, which uses two circuit breakers. In their description, one runs the motor that turns the drum and the other runs the heating element. Samsung adds that the two halves are usually linked to trip together, but if only one trips, the dryer will spin without heating. GE says the breaker can be partly tripped even when it doesn’t look tripped.
- Find the dryer’s breaker in your electrical panel.
- Switch it fully off, wait 30 seconds (Samsung’s advice), and switch it back on.
- Run the heat test again.
Normal: the dryer heats. Problem: the breaker trips again (leave it off and call an electrician), or there is still no heat.
If there is still no heat, the supply may be the problem. Whirlpool says an electric dryer won’t operate correctly without 240 volts and to check with a qualified electrician. GE notes the power cord can have a burned, broken, or loose connection at the back of the dryer. That connection carries 240 volts, so have an electrician or technician inspect it. Samsung adds that if the dryer has never heated since it was installed or moved, the installation is the likely cause.
5. Gas dryers: confirm the gas is on (look, don’t adjust)
A gas dryer plugs into a 120-volt outlet, so it can tumble normally with no gas reaching the burner. Whirlpool and Maytag say the drum will turn but the dryer won’t heat if the gas shutoff valve is closed.
- Look at the shutoff valve on the gas line behind the dryer. Whirlpool says it is open when the handle is parallel to the gas pipe.
- Handle across the pipe: the valve is closed. Don’t turn it yourself. Call your installer, your gas utility, or a qualified gas appliance technician to open it and check the connection.
- New installation? GE says to make sure the gas line was turned on, and to contact service if it is on and the dryer still won’t heat.
- Propane? LG says a dryer running on liquid propane instead of natural gas must be converted by a licensed installer or plumber.
If you smell gas at any point, stop and follow the gas steps at the top of this page.
Brand notes: Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, Maytag, and GE
Samsung dryer not heating
- Vent Blockage Test: some models can test the vent with the drum cool and empty (the button combination is on Samsung’s support page). Samsung says 0 or End means not clogged, CLg or Cg means clogged, C80 means about 80% clogged, and C90 means over 90%.
- HC or hE: the dryer is getting too hot, most often from a clogged lint screen or vent. On electric models Samsung says it can also mean low voltage, which an electrician should check. HC2 is a gas ignition error.
- If the vent test passes and there is still no heat at all, Samsung says the dryer needs service.
LG dryer not heating
- Installation Test: a built-in test that measures temperatures inside the dryer and shows a result or code. LG’s page lists the start buttons by model.
- d80, d90, d95, or Flow Sense bars: airflow is restricted between the dryer and the outside exit.
- nP: no current is reaching the heater, which LG says normally points to the home’s wiring. LG suggests turning the breaker off for at least 10 seconds and having a licensed electrician check the outlet if the code stays.
- gAS: the dryer is not receiving gas. LG says to confirm the valve is on and the gas line isn’t kinked, and to request service if both are fine.
Whirlpool, Maytag, and GE
- Whirlpool and Maytag use the same checks as steps 1 to 5. Some Whirlpool models show a Check Vent alert during Automatic cycles when they sense a blocked vent; the dryer keeps running, but drying takes longer. Both brands sell a dryer vent testing kit.
- GE adds one check: keep the front of the dryer unblocked, because it needs airflow.
Parts that can stop the heat (technician jobs)
If the settings, lint screen, vent, and power or gas supply all check out, Samsung and LG both say the dryer needs service. The parts below are explained so you know what a technician may find. Checking or replacing them means taking the dryer apart, so this guide doesn’t cover how.
| Part | Dryer type | What it does | What happens when it fails |
|---|---|---|---|
| Thermal fuse | Electric and gas | One-time safety device that blows when the dryer gets too hot | Cannot be reset and must be replaced. Maytag lists it as a cause of no heat and says it can also cut power to the motor. |
| Heating element | Electric | Coil or wire that makes the heat | No heat during the cycle. |
| Burner | Gas | Makes the heat in a gas dryer | Damage can leave the dryer unable to heat. |
| Thermostat | Electric and gas | Regulates the cycle temperature | Poor temperature control or no heat. |
| Igniter | Gas | Lights the gas at the burner | Gas doesn’t ignite, so no heat. |
| Flame sensor | Gas | Detects when the igniter is ready to light the burner | No heat. |
| Gas valve coils | Gas | Open the valve so the flame can light | No heat, or heat that comes and goes. |
Which parts your dryer has depends on the model. Maytag recommends professional help for several of these. Source: Maytag and Whirlpool
Whirlpool and Maytag say dryers are required to have a thermal fuse to prevent fires. Since a blocked vent is one thing that makes a dryer overheat, ask the technician to check the airflow too if the fuse has blown.
Heats but clothes still come out damp
- Lint screen and vent (steps 2 and 3). CPSC says damp clothes after a normal cycle, or longer drying than usual, can mean one of them is blocked.
- Load size. Whirlpool and Maytag say to fill the drum only about three-quarters full.
- Soaking-wet clothes take much longer. Whirlpool suggests another spin cycle in the washer first. If your washer leaves water behind, see washer not draining.
- Dirty moisture sensors. Sensor cycles stop when the sensors detect dry clothes. Samsung says dryer sheet residue on the two metal sensor bars inside the drum can keep them from working, and suggests a soft cloth with a drop of dish soap. LG recommends wiping its sensor bars about once a month.
- Small, bulky, or mixed loads. LG recommends a timed cycle instead of a sensor cycle for these.
Whirlpool notes that a clean vent shortens drying time and lowers energy cost. To estimate what your dryer costs to run, try the appliance cost calculator.
Call a pro if…
- You smell gas. Leave first and call from outside (see the safety steps at the top).
- You smell burning, see scorch marks, or the breaker trips again after one reset.
- The gas valve is closed and you don’t know why, or the dryer was just installed, moved, or converted to propane.
- An electric dryer still won’t heat after a breaker reset. Whirlpool and LG say to have a qualified or licensed electrician check the outlet and supply.
- Everything above checks out and there is still no heat. Whirlpool and Maytag recommend a professional for the heating element and thermal fuse because the dryer has to be taken apart.
- The blockage is inside the walls. LG recommends a professional dryer vent cleaner.
- The dryer is under warranty. Contact the manufacturer before anyone opens it.
More laundry fixes are in the washer and dryer guides. For how this site handles safety topics, see the safety disclaimer.
Sources
- Dryer is Not Heating
- Dryer Not Heating: Troubleshooting Guide
- Quick Reference Guide: Whirlpool Electric/Gas Dryer (W11175247B)
- Dryer is Not Heating
- Why Is My Dryer Not Heating?
- Parts of a Dryer: A Guide to Repair or Replace Common Gas or Electric Dryer Parts
- Clothes are not dry after using Samsung dryer
- Samsung dryer displays an error code
- LG Dryer: Why Is My Dryer Not Heating, Not Drying or Taking a Long Time Drying?
- LG Dryer - Error Code List (New)
- LG Dryer - What to Do If You Smell Gas Around Your LG Dryer
- Electric Dryer - Runs But Does Not Heat
- Gas Dryer - Runs But Does Not Heat
- Overheated Clothes Dryers Can Cause Fires (Publication 5022)
- Recalls & Product Safety Warnings
- Clothes Dryer Fire Safety (flyer)
- Appliance and Electrical Fire Safety



